Going back in Time: Fano

Now that I have some time with the internet, I want to post as much as possible and fill in some of the gaps.

Watching the sunrise from the plane. This was right around 6 am Italy time (I woke up just a few minutes before I took this picture. Can't say I've ever seen a sunrise just like that before!)

Piazza in Fano. Fano is a lot more than just a beach town (though the beach is spectacular).

This is Gianni and Gina as we were walking and he gave us a tour of the town and sea side (Gianni is the one who treated us to gelato).

We went out walking in Fano after dark. This is the church where I attended mass Sunday morning (the bike riding portion of the trip started Sunday afternoon).

Italians love arugula. Therefore, I love Italian food! This pizza was from a restaurant called Florida (I might have mentioned this before in a previous post), it was good food, but did it have to be called Florida?

Dinner on the first night of the bike riding portion of the trip was insanely good. All sorts of wonderful seafood, pasta, you name it. I had to get my stomach conditioned to handle so much heavy food minutes before bedtime.

The first night of the bike riding portion of the trip, Andrea (not sure on spelling) gave us a tour of Fano. Here he was talking about its wall.

More Bevagna pics

The hills that border Bevagna. If I remember correctly, to the left is Assisi and to the right is Spello. I should have other pics to show these towns more clearly. Hey, look at this road: it's flat...very uncommon for Umbria!
Land just outside of Bevagna.

Cute little old men chillin' on the main street in Bevagna. This is a common thing to see: men spending time together during the day in many of these little towns. I never see this back home (guys, take note...I think this is one of the many secrets to happiness).
The wall of Bevagna--I understand some of my ancestors helped bulid this wall!

Antonio (from the Commune) walked me down the street to the museum in order to get someone to help with translation. And since we couldn't communicate too effectively, I was wondering where he was taking me until we got there. Fortunately, I had discovered the museum the previous day so I wasn't a total stranger to the girls working there.


I think this is looking back down at Bevagna/land in that vicinity.

More land of Bevagna (outside of the wall).

This used to be a Virgin Mary, she isn't in there any longer. Just outside the wall of Bevagna, near Leda's home.

Another view of the piazza (where the church is, it just isn't in this picture).

One of My Favorite Experiences from the Bike Trip

I'm in this great little place (sort of a B&B) near the Spanish Steps in Roma tonight. They have a computer and I don't have to pay for it, yippee (finally). I want to get a little caught up in picture posting since I can already predict very little time for this when I get home and I just don't want to lose any of the memories or not share them with you!

This story comes from the second to the last day of the bike trip (we were riding to Sorano from Orvieto, I believe). I took the extra loop option (was always a good thing since I had lots of time to rap with whoever the ride leader was that day...I learned so much extra stuff about Italy, the culture, history, etc., this way since our leaders are so full of info. And, the pace was pretty steadily high so it was good training at the same time. That day I was riding with Frank (oh, random cool info: his girlfriend is related to the Zarlengo family in Denver! I never really thought about it, that they are Italian.)

Anyway, we found this little old bike shop that looked closed up. We were looking in the windows when the happiest, healthiest little old man (83 years old, but looked at least a decade younger) came over and opened the door. He is still so passionate about bikes as he has been throughout his life. He will work in the shop forever, he has no plans to sell.

Outside of the shop.

This bike (the one where you see the front wheel in the left part of the shot) is one he still uses. It has a motor on it, and the mechanism to allow the whole thing to be used as a pedaled bike or motorized one is really neat to see.

Floor mat as you walk in the door:

This is me with the shop owner. I have his info, he wants a copy of this picture. (He doesn't speak a word of English, again, another reason I need to learn Italian. I have a very long list of reasons at this point.) =)

Tiny shop, but tons of bikes!

Now in Rome...

Tiber River in Rome...looking very green, but the stone work is very cool!

We made it to Rome today. This morning was a bit stressful with trying to get train tickets and then trying to get to our seat on the train. It wasn't a big deal, however, and made it without a problem. Now we're in a hip part of the city, where everything is just beginning to open up for dinner (between 3 and 7:30 almost all businesses close in Italy).

My feet are tired from tons of walking, but it's entirely worth it...I found a great pair of Italian boots (made with Italian leather) in Florence that I just don't want to take off.

We're staying near the Vatican so strolled through St. Peter's Square on the way to other sites. The enormity of it is unreal. Everywhere one looks, there is another huge, beautiful statue or building made of beautiful stone.

The drivers and motor scooters are as crazy as everyone says they are.

I'm having yet more problems uploading pictures...and considering I'm not using my computer, there shouldn't be an issue. Hrumph! I am glad to be away from the computer for most of the time, the break has been healthy for me!

Florence was a cool town and enjoyable. Rome is a bit huge and overwhelming, but I am going to try to appreciate it for all of the history, art and church stuff. I really miss the small towns, natural beauty, simplicity of the small towns I biked through during the bike portion of this trip. I feel like that's really living Italy.

I'll post more about the food here later, it deserves a very, very long post. It is so amazingly delicious and overall very good for you (yes, I'm beginning to appreciate wine for the first time, too). I've found that I am digesting this food so much more easily than Italian food as it is served in the US. And I have not been shy in eating the meat, since it comes in small quantities and is always moist and good.

Internet time is up, time to go find dinner (a place a friend in CO recommended since it's not touristy).

Ciao for now!

Florence Pics

Inside the Duomo in Firenze.

Another pic of the river with the sunset.

One of the many, many gelatos I have had the pleasure of enjoying. Not sure what my favorite flavor is yet. Will need to test a few more before making a decision.

A view of the river. Beautiful sunset!

Piazza Michaelangelo night before last in Firenze. It offers a wonderful overlook of the city and a replica of David.

Florence/Firenze

Yawn! I'm tired. I have been wanting to sleep all day today. After riding my bike for 481 miles and having oxygen to consume (I took full advantage of the additional fuel), many of those were really hard ones that tapped my legs for everything they had to give. (In Colorado, my lungs hurt. At low altitude with rollers and tons of climbing, it's my legs that feel it.) I might have to cross race this year (hadn't been planning on it), but it seems like a shame to do the equivalent of training camp and not race until next spring.

After a picture perfect morning in Porto Ercole, Gina and I got on the train early this morning. It took us to Pisa where we got another train to Florence. The train ride was very comfortable and the time flew by (3 hrs total). Our hotel was easy to find and the woman working the front desk was super sweet (Nadia) and very helpful to give us an idea as to how to get around town.

She recommended to us that we go to this local trattoria (where the locals eat) just a couple of blocks away. There, the food was super fresh and the highlight was their oh so wonderful gnocchi--the best I have ever had. Check it out: the meal included a first course, second course, house vino and vegetable dish all for 10 euros. And it was so good! The people eating there were all locals and friendly. We ended up making friends with the older patrons even though none of them spoke a word of English. They are all so friendly. One of the guys asked Gina if all Americans are as friendly as she is (she was the one talking to him, I was not facing him). Gina has been great to travel with. It's hard to believe that we hadn't met prior to the first day of this trip.

After lunch, we zonked with a power nap and then caught a bus that took us to the San Miniato cathedral (and graveyard, you have to see the pics to understand--the graves are sort of sticking out of the ground in the front on the cathedral lawn) and the Piazzale Michelangelo (it's a grand place to see out over all of Florence). The duomo is huge, we'll get there tomorrow at some point. Then we walked back to the hotel, taking the very long way checking out lots of streets and neighborhoods.

So far, I have yet to see two buildings that are the same in Italy. The architecture is so unique and wonderful in its age and design. My time is nearly out on the computer here, so I'd better go.

Thanks to everyone who has sent me emails, I've received them and really appreciate them!!!

Ciao!

Porto Ercole

I am now in Porto Ercole, a beautiful place next to the Mediterranean Sea. We are done with the riding portion of the trip. Internet is free, but I dont think I can stay in this place very long. Today the mood has been a bit different, I think we are all a little sad that this is nearly over (we still have dinner together tonight to celebrate, but it is about time for everyone to part). Gina and I are heading to Florence tomorrow morning and then to Rome until we fly home.

I am SOOOO glad I did this, it was worth so much more than I paid for it. As soon as I get home, I will put up all of the pictures and many of the stories (countless). The problem is that no story is short. Everything here is so wonderful...and I am doing my best to distill what about this experience is cool because we have guides who take care of everything for us versus having everyday tasks, work, chores, etc.

I had better get going, this is far from private and someone could be waiting.

Ciao ciao!!!

More...

I am too paranoid about losing pics, etc, so am posting more. First, quick update--the guy who showed me around Bevagna day before yesterday who was married to Franchescas sister is Irmo Gasparrini. He lives with his one daughter directly across the street from where Ledas house is. (Sorry, I cant find the apostrophe on this international keyboard and I am tired of trying to use different English to work around it).

Orvieto (where we are now) is a cool town. It has one heck of an amazing cathedral (built around the year 1240)--we got a tour of it yesterday. They also have tons of underground caves, we got a tour of those, too. the caves were built by the Etruscans Many of the caves are now being used as wine cellars. Dinner last night was at a pastry shop. First, they showed us how to make pasta and then they (it is a family) made us dinner. They have a dining area that they only open upon reservation or for dignitaries. So it was definitely a treat to help make dinner (just the pasta portion) and then they served us many other wonderful treats during the evening. I love eating family style. Every room we stay in has a tv, but there is no time to watch it. I flipped it on quickly just to hear the Italian, but otherwise, no tv (or radio for that matter). I dont miss either.

Pic as we were riding to Prodo. This is one example of a breathtaking view that you just turn your head and bam, there it is, something totally unexpected, totally gorgeous. I didnt expect to see water. The problem is that the terrain changes so fast that any time I wait to take a pic because I think I will have a better vantage point, everything changes and the chance for that photo op is then gone.

The familys wine cellar in the caves below Orvieto. It went on and on and on! They have hundreds of bottles of wine (they made themselves) and most were very dusty/old.

Looking down from Orvieto to the land below.

Making pasta! Wow, that is a weird expression on my face.

Bevagna, Take 2

Yesterday morning I started off early to get to Bevagna before the group arrived so that I could do a few more things in town. It was a little frustrating trying to find the home of my great grandfather (then Ledas home) and a few other places where people lived. Landmarks changed and whole addresses changed. I was pretty sure I was going to leave empty handed. After asking every person and neighbor I could (none spoke any English), it was clear to me that I was barking up the wrong tree.

Next I went back to the Commune to find Antonio, the guy who would give me the marriage certificate of my great grandmother and great grandfather if he was around/everything worked out okay. He sent me away and told me to come back at 10:30. I was getting a little nervous since the bike group I am here with was going to be in town at that time and I did not think it prudent to miss riding with them out of town to Todi (our final destination yesterday).

So I headed into the square and there was one of our guides, Marcello, talking with two cute little old men. One is a friend of his, Professor Piatti, the other was married to the sister of Franchesca (when she was alive, she died recently). He knew the WHOLE story of our family! I asked him about the home where Dora played when she was little. He took me there. I asked about the home of my great grandfather, he took me there, too!!! He does not speak any English, but with the help of Marcello translating everything, I had a good conversation with this wonderful man. It was a very touching experience.

This is Marcello doing an excellent job of translating!

Upon concluding that visit (it was very short, of course), I returned to the commune where Antonio walked me all over the place and I am now in possession of the marriage certificates for my great grandmother and great grandfather--1913! WOW!!!

Standing in front of the home where my great grandfather died with the bro-in-law of Franchesca (I have his name and address, just forgot to bring my journal with me for this internet session).






Full shot of the house. No one lives there currently, but the family is keeping it.

He said that this house is where my great grandfather and great grandmother used to live earlier. He said that it has been expanded since then. Does anyone recognize it?

The ride to Todi was fabulous. I caught back up with the group (they had stopped for food in Mount Falcone (sp)--I will get this blog all updated with correct info when I have time. Right now I am paying $5 euro every 1/2 hr for internet. Ack. There was (as always) tons of climbing and the end of the ride included a 2k, 22% grade climb. It was fun, but thank goodness (yet again) for the triple.

Todi--it rained last night (for the first time in weeks, er, months possibly) there. The vino is all the better for it, it sounds like. The rain did not impede our visit at all.

Later that night in Todi (on the way to the most marvelous pizza dinner I have ever had).

More later, I have 3 minutes left before I get kicked off this computer.

And yes, I love Italy and ooooh the riding just keeps getting better. Tired now, though. Over 500 kilometers have been logged so far. YEAAAAA for all of it!!!!

Lunch stop in some quaint town, dont remember the name of it right now (I will know all of these things after comparing pics with route maps).
Gina, Marcello, Andrè (gave us a tour when we were in Urbino and Fano) and I in Urbino.
Gary and I with the capellinos. Story on those later.