More...

I am too paranoid about losing pics, etc, so am posting more. First, quick update--the guy who showed me around Bevagna day before yesterday who was married to Franchescas sister is Irmo Gasparrini. He lives with his one daughter directly across the street from where Ledas house is. (Sorry, I cant find the apostrophe on this international keyboard and I am tired of trying to use different English to work around it).

Orvieto (where we are now) is a cool town. It has one heck of an amazing cathedral (built around the year 1240)--we got a tour of it yesterday. They also have tons of underground caves, we got a tour of those, too. the caves were built by the Etruscans Many of the caves are now being used as wine cellars. Dinner last night was at a pastry shop. First, they showed us how to make pasta and then they (it is a family) made us dinner. They have a dining area that they only open upon reservation or for dignitaries. So it was definitely a treat to help make dinner (just the pasta portion) and then they served us many other wonderful treats during the evening. I love eating family style. Every room we stay in has a tv, but there is no time to watch it. I flipped it on quickly just to hear the Italian, but otherwise, no tv (or radio for that matter). I dont miss either.

Pic as we were riding to Prodo. This is one example of a breathtaking view that you just turn your head and bam, there it is, something totally unexpected, totally gorgeous. I didnt expect to see water. The problem is that the terrain changes so fast that any time I wait to take a pic because I think I will have a better vantage point, everything changes and the chance for that photo op is then gone.

The familys wine cellar in the caves below Orvieto. It went on and on and on! They have hundreds of bottles of wine (they made themselves) and most were very dusty/old.

Looking down from Orvieto to the land below.

Making pasta! Wow, that is a weird expression on my face.

Bevagna, Take 2

Yesterday morning I started off early to get to Bevagna before the group arrived so that I could do a few more things in town. It was a little frustrating trying to find the home of my great grandfather (then Ledas home) and a few other places where people lived. Landmarks changed and whole addresses changed. I was pretty sure I was going to leave empty handed. After asking every person and neighbor I could (none spoke any English), it was clear to me that I was barking up the wrong tree.

Next I went back to the Commune to find Antonio, the guy who would give me the marriage certificate of my great grandmother and great grandfather if he was around/everything worked out okay. He sent me away and told me to come back at 10:30. I was getting a little nervous since the bike group I am here with was going to be in town at that time and I did not think it prudent to miss riding with them out of town to Todi (our final destination yesterday).

So I headed into the square and there was one of our guides, Marcello, talking with two cute little old men. One is a friend of his, Professor Piatti, the other was married to the sister of Franchesca (when she was alive, she died recently). He knew the WHOLE story of our family! I asked him about the home where Dora played when she was little. He took me there. I asked about the home of my great grandfather, he took me there, too!!! He does not speak any English, but with the help of Marcello translating everything, I had a good conversation with this wonderful man. It was a very touching experience.

This is Marcello doing an excellent job of translating!

Upon concluding that visit (it was very short, of course), I returned to the commune where Antonio walked me all over the place and I am now in possession of the marriage certificates for my great grandmother and great grandfather--1913! WOW!!!

Standing in front of the home where my great grandfather died with the bro-in-law of Franchesca (I have his name and address, just forgot to bring my journal with me for this internet session).






Full shot of the house. No one lives there currently, but the family is keeping it.

He said that this house is where my great grandfather and great grandmother used to live earlier. He said that it has been expanded since then. Does anyone recognize it?

The ride to Todi was fabulous. I caught back up with the group (they had stopped for food in Mount Falcone (sp)--I will get this blog all updated with correct info when I have time. Right now I am paying $5 euro every 1/2 hr for internet. Ack. There was (as always) tons of climbing and the end of the ride included a 2k, 22% grade climb. It was fun, but thank goodness (yet again) for the triple.

Todi--it rained last night (for the first time in weeks, er, months possibly) there. The vino is all the better for it, it sounds like. The rain did not impede our visit at all.

Later that night in Todi (on the way to the most marvelous pizza dinner I have ever had).

More later, I have 3 minutes left before I get kicked off this computer.

And yes, I love Italy and ooooh the riding just keeps getting better. Tired now, though. Over 500 kilometers have been logged so far. YEAAAAA for all of it!!!!

Lunch stop in some quaint town, dont remember the name of it right now (I will know all of these things after comparing pics with route maps).
Gina, Marcello, Andrè (gave us a tour when we were in Urbino and Fano) and I in Urbino.
Gary and I with the capellinos. Story on those later.

Bevagna -- Pics!!!

Frank, one of our guides, explaining wine over the most amazing dinner in Spello night before last.
Donna--is this the saint Vincent? Sorry if I messed that one up. Lots of statues and saints here!

THE church in Bevagna!

Pic of me in the church.

Bevagna

Bevagna--it's only been a fairy tale to me prior to today. I rode my bike to Bevagna--I went solo...well, not quite. Not far out of Spello, I stopped to check directions to see which way I should go. I wasn't 100% sure on what to do so I asked a passing cyclist (in Italian) which way to Bevagna. He ended up riding with me most of the way there. Fortunately, his English was good and he was very nice.

Our guides were not totally available to go with me because one of the guys on this trip crashed and is spending time in the hospital. He'll be okay, but got a pretty bad concussion and road rash (hit some bad pavement).

Back to Bevagna--I got those warm, yet cold, chills as I rode in and I kept feeling them almost the whole time I was there. The highlight was the church where Grandma was baptized and many relatives have been married and baptized. It's a beautiful church and the door was unlocked with no one inside. So I had a lot of time to myself in there to pray and think about the people who have attended that church and what has happened there that is so significant to our family.

I rode through the streets, up and down, just to get a feel for the place. Found the commune to try to get the marriage certificate for my great grandmother and great grandfather. There was a museum of Bevagna where I stopped, there was a book that had photos from the town since 1920. I have taken a couple of pics, I'll share them w/family to see if you recognize them...they had the last names of Rosa and Rosetti.

Spent some time shopping, stopped for a croissant when I was starving and watched the old men who were all sitting together outside near the piazza just chilling and chatting together. I asked a bunch of people if they knew our relatives, but no one did. I think I picked the wrong people. Tomorrow there will be another chance to talk with older people in the piazza in Bevagna so I'll see what I can do. And I'll get to the grave yard, as well.

I know right now that I need to come back here with much more time on my hands and not be on any schedule to actually sit down and meet with my relatives. I want to see them so badly, but I also know there has to be more than a couple of minutes. I'll update more tomorrow (if there's internet in Todi, that's where we're headed on the bike ride tomorrow after passing through and spending some time in Bevagna).

After I rode back to Spello from Bevagna, I went on a tour of Assisi with the group. It was a bit touristy, but the churches were awesome (huge/gorgeous frescos/multi-leveled monstrosities). We had a guide who was very knowledgeable. After that we hit a family winery for wine tasting. I know a lot more about wine now.

Heading out to check out Spello now, it's a beautiful summer evening (it was pretty hot and humid today).

I'll update much more later on more thoughts on Bevagna and, of course, many pics are coming. Honestly, after I got back from there, I wasn't in a talkative mood, the whole experience really just needs to be absorbed and reflected upon before being able to really put in words what it was like.

I will be returning to Italy soon.

Buona sera!

Italy

With the internet giving me issues (it's a mix of not having access and my computer not being able to connect to wifi (it is now), I've been journaling a lot on paper. I expect to post all pictures and the full story of the trip after I get home, but I'm not thinking about being home right now. Dinner is in 1/2 an hour and that's what's on my mind.

Food in Italy (at least in this region, Umbria, and the last one I was in) is TREMENDOUS. It's not the bowl full of pasta that Americans call Italian. Here's a good example. Yesterday's lunch (during our ride from Genga to Gubbio) was at a cute little place in the middle of the countryside. The woman has a garden where all of the ingredients come from. The cantalope and watermelon were to-die-for-good, she made a rice dish with olives in it and chopped up veggies, there was a garden salad, very thinly sliced meat and chunks of cheese, a rasperry torte (not sure what you call it) and wine also made by her. Only locals were eating there aside from us. It was such an experience. You don't order off of the menu--you eat whatever she decided to prepare based on what was freshest in the garden that day. THIS IS EATING! None of the food is very heavy, yes, there's pasta, but it's a part of a much bigger production at every meal so there's no getting stuffed. Goodness, it's fresh, wonderful.

The secret of longevity can be found here in Italy. Most people live in the home of their parents and their parents. The grandparents help raise the grandkids, so they have a very definite purpose. Everyone goes to the market every day to get fresh veggies...just the walk to and from the store provides people the aerobic exercise they need to stay healthy (don't forget how hilly it is everywhere). Young people don't need super high-paying jobs--they don't have a mortgage and they have help with child care in the form of their family members (no daycare, I wonder if that exists at all here).

Often as I walk through the streets of whichever town we're visiting, I see people on the streets talking to each other. Typically someone will be leaning out of a 2nd floor window (they don't have screens on their windows, just beautiful shutters) and talking to people on the street who are passing by.

I apologize if I'm repeating myself. Keeping 2 journals makes it tricky to remember what's been shared and what hasn't. The weather has been picture perfect almost the whole time. The heat and humidity are down somewhat from the highs in the middle of the summer. This morning we thought we might get rain today, but the clouds passed. Most days we don't see any clouds at all anywhere in the sky.

The tour company (Ciclismo Classico) has absolutely blown me away with everything they're doing to make this trip wonderful. They have an interest in giving us the cultural experience, but also we get ample miles every day. There's always an extra loop option to add additional miles and climbing. Most of the time these additional loops also add another phenomenal view(s) or new terrain. I've gone on all of them and my legs are pretty much so exhausted, I'm ready for some downtime tonight. Makes it much easier to sit here on the computer. We have all day/night in Spello tomorrow so I will go out shopping/gelato-eating tomorrow evening. All morning tomorrow I will be in Bevagna. One of our guides got in touch with someone in the family--Marcello Trabalza, I'll be meeting him tomorrow morning. I think one of the guides will come with me (yea! a translator. I really like both of our guides, they're so knowledgeable about the areas, but it's also very good that they know a ton about riding and are fit). I was getting some good coaching while climbing today by Marcello. Frank (our other guide) has all of these ties to Denver, his sister lives there and she's tied into the Italian community there. I really hope to get to know that community better--and definitely learn the language.

Oops, it's dinner time now and I can't wait to eat. Metabolism is on overdrive! Sorry about the pictures, still having issues uploading them.

Buona sera!

AND: Thank you to everyone who has emailed/commented, your messages are so incredibly appreciated...I bring your thoughts with me as I travel this very special place.

Another beautiful day

It's about time to go pack up our bags in the van, get ride directions, then ride to some caves. After that will be about a 40 mile ride. Most days begin with a tour of something cultural/cool. I was chatting with one of our guides last night (Marcello) and he was going on and on about how cool Bevagna is. In fact, we might change the route of the rest day in Spello such that we ride into Bevagna and spend more time there...then I think Gina and I will bum around there for most of the day. The guides are going to be helping me communicate with cousins who live there, they're great--so helpful and nice all of the time. There's a Professor Piatti who is 80 who lives there and is a good friend of the guides. He'll be having cafe with us in a few mornings in Bevagna.

As you can tell, internet has been spotty. Could be days before the next post, this has been an ideal situation here being plugged into the wall. Hope all is well with everyone in the states!

Ciao!

Pics (sorry not many)

Hey, Grandma! The train that we took to Fano on the first day went through Terni. So I can say I've been there! :)


This is Gina and I with the gelato shop owner (who gave us the free gelato). He's been in the business for something like 45 years.

What day is it? What time is it?

I love Italy. Did I mention that already? This is just the coolest place...and now I've been to quite a few other towns from Fano and they are all so quaint in their own, very unique way. Each I love for its own reason. Time has a totally different meaning here. I suppose it's appropriate that my attempt to keep time on my wrist keeps being somehow messed up. Two watches have been water logged in one way or another and I go timeless now. It's okay, though there are times we have to keep to since we're on the schedule of the tour.

Ciclismo Classico is doing a VERY amazing job of taking us from town to town (we get ride directions every morning and one guide rides with us and the other drives a nice van full of our bags, food, etc). Both of the guides are awesome and very accomplished cyclists (one is a former bike racer/trackie and the other is a triathlete).

From Fano, we rode to Urbino, where we spent last night. It's an amazing place. It's brick. Literally, the whole darn place is brick! And it has a very steep road that probably is around a 25% grade. The ride from Fano to Urbino was really fun--it was the first real day of riding (Sunday we went for a short spin to make sure the bikes fit correctly and give the group an idea as to how to read the route notes, but it was only 10k so very short). The Italian countryside is so picturesque...it's what you see in pictures, but it's real to me now. It never had been before.

There was a decent amount of climbing and I'm okay with admitting that I really enjoyed having a triple chain ring. Yep, you heard correctly. With these grades and constant rollers or climbing (all fairly steep), standard gearing would have my knees screaming at me. Also, I felt like I was climbing much faster than usual. Sure, there's oxygen here, that's nice, too.

After arriving in Urbino, it was an absolutely perfect summer evening so I didn't waste any time and picked up some gelatto, and did a bunch of other shopping. The highlight was a journal and some water. I found a natural food store (it was small). It was fun dealing with all of the shop owners who pretty much didn't speak any English at all. I was debating whether or not to buy some kamut croissants (croissants are big here...aren't those French?) A guy walked up and started commenting on them in Italian. I quickly let him know I didn't understand and he didn't speak English, yet he was still able to relay to me that he's a professor (Urbino has a lot of colleges in it), and he told me to immerse myself in the Italian language (like watching tv, etc in Italian) and I'll learn it. It was fun to understand so much just from hand gestures and both of us speaking the languages we know. I ended the day with a 1/2 hr massage (a little different there since there isn't as much privacy) but the girl was good and I haven't had a massagio for many months.

Dinner was yummy and I was a little late due to the massage. Again, yummy (not quite as fabulous as dinner had been the previous night in Fano), but still very good. Rabbit and boar were the highlights, but for me it was the very thin pasta noodles with raddichio cooked in and the dessert which was flan-like with different fruit/chocolate toppings. Pics later, it's hard to describe.

Now I'm in the middle of nowhere (still gorgeous, still wonderful). Town is called Pontebovescco. The ride here was awesome and I picked the extra loop to do which meant (since the other guests didn't do it except for two who went off on their own) that there was insane climbing, insane descending and I got to ride as hard as I could with our guide. It turned into a bigger/harder effort than anything I've done in months. Thank goodness there was a cool pool with jets (like a hot tub, but cold) where I spent significant time this evening. Time for a shower and a movie about Umbria (Gubbio, I believe that's where we're headed tomorrow).

Btw, I had some questions about safety--it's absolutely safe here (I'm not being stupid, the guides told us this), there's nothing to be concerned about and I'm being smart/wouldn't put myself in any sort of iffy situations.

Ciao! Buona notte!

Bikes, finally

Yesterday was great--Gina and I met a nice older Italian gentleman at lunch (Gianni) who took us to a gelateria for award-winning gelato--he knows the owner so it was a large glass full of chocolate, banana, cantalope & chocolate cookie gelato w/whipped cream and a wafer cookie. Molto buono!!!! He asked that we tell all our American friends of the wonders of their gelatto.

We went on a long walk, Gianni's English was pretty good so he told us a lot. We got a tour of his pride and joy--his boat. I felt a tickle in my throat and freaked out. All of the stress leading up to this trip set me up nicely to get sick. So I OD'd on vitamins and herbs, drank tons and went to bed before 8pm. I'm a little nasally today, but not sick.

This morning I attended mass after breakfast (love it that all Catholic masses are the same so I knew what was going on). After, wandered through Fano taking in the (closed) cute shops and narrow cobblestone streets.

We met with the tour group today to all meet each other over lunch and get familiar with trip protocol. Our leaders are Marcello and Frank--both Italians but Frank lived in Colorado for many years. The group is 10 big--everyone is from the Bay area (Cali) or Colorado except for 2 people, I think.

We did a quick ride to make sure the bikes are set right so the real mileage will be tomorrow. Tour of Fano tonight a piede (walking) and then dinner.

So far I haven't seen anyone fit the stereotypical Italian male (in attitude), everyone is warm, gracious--beautiful inside and out (with being very natural).

Buona notte!